Catastrophic spring frosts in 2017 led to a decimated crop of Chardonnay for Jean-François Ganevat. Undeterred, he ploughed ahead and was able to rescue enough fruit from across the parcels he owns to make this single cuvée that’s still as balanced and as fine as in so-called ‘better’ vintages. Proof positive that good winemakers will make great wine regardless of what the weather throws at them.