Pierre Boyat works on the Beaujolais-Burgundy hinterland to produce enigmatically delicious wines from Chardonnay and Gamay. His tiny, half-a-hectare plot in Saint-Verán is formed of vines aged between 30-80 years and that produce this steely yet complex riff on Chardonnay that’s now, after a few years ageing, deeply in its groove.