Gloria Garriga’s century-old plots of Sumoll, high in the hills of Font-Rubí in Catalonia, are still producing bountiful fruit that’s packed full of characteristic soul. Her rosé, labelled here almost ironically as ‘Vi di Taula’ (table wine), is one of the great joys of the natural wine world and a thing of sheer beauty. A magnum format will allow this to age and age for years to come.